We must have some serious chemistry because you’re here again for our THIRD Skin Series Blog! Lovin’ the support that we have gotten from you if you’ve stuck with us this far. So we’re going to go more in-depth with what these mysterious chemical peels are and why it’s such a great step to incorporate into your skincare routine. You’ve probably heard of some of the more popular ones like salicylic acid for blemishes or citric acids for brightening. So chances are you’ve already been using them in your routine just embedded in your cleansers.

So there are 3 main types of chemical exfoliants that skincare products use: PHA, AHA, and BHA. All have similarities in what they do for your skin, but can definitely make a difference depending on what skin type you have. Chemical exfoliants mainly help shed that dead-skin layer that lies on top or penetrates through sebum that sits within your pores. So without further ado, let’s get to it. “Sanding it down and stripping it” and then repainting it with new stuff.

AHA, or Alpha-hydroxy Acids

You’ve probably already used products with AHAs blended in with them. AHAs are naturally derived from things like fruits, sugar cane, or milk. They’re gentle water-soluble acids that work on the epidermis (top layer). They work by breaking down the bonds of the dead skin that lies on the surface. Without these bonds, it’s easier for the dead and dull skin to fall off, or be “exfoliated”. With this process, it is only natural to have brighter skin because new bebe skin is exposed. AHAs are great for all skin types, including dry skin to help with texturing. A few of the most commonly used AHAs are listed below:

Glycolic acid

It’s pretty much the holy grail of the AHAs due to it’s small molecular size
It comes from sugar cane
Helps with texture to smooth out the skin
Can be used 2-3 times per week

Lactic acid

Slightly larger than glycolic acid, making it more gentle
It comes from sour milk, but doesn’t smell gross!
Helps with moisturizing as well as texture

Malic acid

Milder than glycolic and lactic acid, often used in combination with other AHAs
It comes from apples
Helps with brightening

Mandelic acid

It comes from bitter almonds
Helps with anti-bacterial properties and exfoliation without the brightening
Very gentle on your skin!

BEAUTY GIVEAWAY 2020

I’m going to be teaming up with Susanna to host a giveaway in celebration of Okami & Company’s one year anniversary! To enter, participants must do the following:

Follow us on IG @lynnnnsane and @SusannaTheSkinSlayer
Tag a friend on the respective Instagram post for the giveaway
Comment on each blog post on the website with your favorite products and why

Each individual tag on Instagram is an additional entry to the giveaway. This giveaway will feature trial size and full size products that we will be recommending throughout the skin series!

GIVEAWAY ENDS FEBRUARY 23 :)

BHA, or Beta-hydroxy Acids

The infamous salicylic acid that all of us have known as tried and true during our pubescent years. Chances are your parents bought you your first face wash containing a dose of salicylic acid when your teenage face was first starting to break out. You know that it is gentle enough to use every day. The first time I used salicylic acid was when I was started on Proactiv and it made a world of difference. Salicylic acid is a fat-soluble acid that is able to penetrate deeper into the pores and those stubborn oil glands allowing them to be cleared. Unclogging those pores are so important before applying other products, especially ones that are not fat-soluble. With that being said, BHAs work great for those with oilier skin types!

PHA, or Poly-hydroxy Acids

It’s not that this is a new one, but it is becoming more popularly used. Think of PHAs as the baby sister of AHAs. They’re very similar, but the biggest difference is the larger molecular size of a PHA. If you’ve ever taken the time to look at your products, anything with glucose lactose, galactose, or lactobionic acid is a PHA. Who does this product work best for? Those with sensitive skin. Sometimes our skin doesn’t tolerate products because, let’s face it, some products are just too strong for our skin. A big plus for PHAs are most PHAs are great for hydration because they’re a humectant. There’s also less of a chance for photoaging, aka, you’re less sensitive to the harsh rays of the sun after application. That doesn’t mean to skip out on the sunscreen though.

Things to remember about chemical exfoliants

Can be found in some of your main products already or are found as their own product
Tingling versus burning? Tingling is normal and subsides a few minutes after application; burning does not subside and you may see redness afterward - this could be a sign that you’re using it too often or the concentration is too high for your skin right now
Try to use them at night to not expose skin to immediately the sun because your skin may become irritated with increased sun exposure - USE SUNSCREEN THE MORNING AFTER (if you aren’t a normal wearer of sunscreen, cause it should be used daily)
Hydrate and moisturize after application of chemical peels
Check the concentration of the peels that you use, start low and work your way up
Don’t over-exfoliate with physical or chemical exfoliants - if you plan on using a chemical exfoliant, maybe skip out on your Clarisonic for the night, the last thing you want is to cause micro-tears in your skin
Don’t use on sensitive skin (already broken skin, inflamed skin, or bad blemishes) Not even PHA! Let your skin heal first before you start to slough it off

It’s a new decade in just a few short days! Isn’t that crazy?! So much has happened in my life this past decade: I graduated high school in Japan, I attended culinary and nursing school, I joined the military, I got married in Denmark, and now I’m having my first child (next decade, lol). I’ve been to way too many countries to count, and I’ve met so many awesome people along the way. Of all the things I’ve learned growing up in the past 10 years, one essential thing has been taking care of my skin.

My skin when I first moved from Japan to the states, full of acne and scars, I was extremely self-conscious due to my skin. My confidence was always torn down by people commenting on my scars (which was a total pr*ck move)!

When I moved to the states, I came with a face full of acne that only got worse when I started my culinary lab classes. Spending 8-10 hours in the kitchen with a chef hat on and always having that greasy feeling did not help my skin at all. So there have been a few essentials I learned to pick up along the way. Here to help me explain the importance of skin care is none other than my best friend, Susanna.

My personal Beauty AESTHETIC Consultant

“to create a relaxing experience while properly educating each client that I have the opportunity to share my passion with.”

Hey Y’all, I’m Susanna; I am originally from Austin, Texas. My career began almost ten years ago at AVEDA Institute Austin. Shortly after, I enrolled in medical aesthetics school at Texas Laser and Aesthetics. I found my love and passion for helping others achieve their best self as a whole, along with developing other aestheticians to become the best in a medical environment. With a broad range of specialties, I am most proud to specialize in skin transformations such as acne/scar revision. Part of my mantra is, “to create a relaxing experience while properly educating each client that I have the opportunity to share my passion with.” I am elated to bring my knowledge, skill, and extensive training to others and I look forward to meeting each of you and your skincare goals.

The Essentials

To start this off, I do want to preface with my skin type. I have dry/normal skin. In the winter time, I tend to get rough patches along my temples, and in the summer time, I tend to feel like Spongebob going to Sandy’s house for the first time. My skin is thirsty and it loves hydrating products. So if you have oily skin, these products may react to your skin differently, but they’re all products for normal/combo skin. Most of my hydration comes from the extras I use in part ii.

1. Oil-based cleanser

I think it’s been such a major step to double cleanse my face, starting out with an oil-based cleanser. I’ve noticed it’s really helped lift makeup, sweat, and dirt off of my face making my water-based cleansers much more effective in penetrating my skin. The only time I really skip this initial step is if I don’t put on any makeup and I’m chillin’ at my house for the day. Also, oil-based cleaners are not bad for those with oily skin!

Susanna: Oil-based or creme based cleansers are best for dry/sensitive skin. These types of cleansers help to soften the epidermis without causing a contraindication. Oil or creme based cleansers should also be used for the removal of makeup rather than your usual cleanser.

Banila Co. Clean It Zero | I love this cleanser for the days I decide to wear a full face of makeup. It’s such a smooth consistency. You don’t need much product to have it be an effective cleanser. Just a small scoop with the included spatula will take off all of my eye make up and “loosen” my foundation for easy removal. There are different versions of Clean It Zero for those with different skin types, so that’s very reassuring for those who want to try it but have oilier skin!

Mamonde Petal Spa Oil to Foam Cleanser | I recently started using this cleanser for when I don’t wear a lot of makeup. I love the smell of it because this entire line is a soft floral scent. My face always feels very refreshed and not dry after using this cleanser, which is super important when you’re going to double cleanse with a water-based cleanser.

2. Water-based cleanser

I’ve been using water-based cleansers the moment I got my first pimple. Using an oil-based cleanser before hand to remove things like sunscreen and makeup makes using a water-based cleanser that more efficient. The water-based cleanser removes water soluble based impurities like sweat and dirt. Double cleansing skin was made popular by SoKo (South Korean) beauty routines. After living in Korea and realizing how much pollution was in the air, I decided to start doing a double clean to wash away as much gunk as I could.

Susanna: Water or gel-based cleansers are best for oily or some acne-prone skin types. Gel-based is important for these types because it helps to balance out your skin’s oil/acne production with ingredients such as Salicylic and Azelaic Acid.

Kiehls Calendula Cleanser | My old faithful. I’ve been using this cleanser for about two years now, and it has never steered my skin wrong. The days that I don’t wear make up and don’t sweat much, like if I stay in the house, I use this and skip the double-cleanse. It’s a gel that still gets a pretty good lather despite being sulfate-free. I have pretty dry skin, so it’s nice that it’s gentle enough to not strip my face of moisture. I do enjoy the smell of the calendula line, it’s just a soft herbal scent that’s not overpowering. And did you know, that calendula is an anti-bacterial? So if you’re acne-prone, it’s nice to have in your skincare products to help with that extra bacteria that sits on your skin, and it’s an anti-inflammatory to help with redness.

The Body Deli Melon Foaming Cleanser | I started using this cleanser this summer, and I use it every other day, although it is gentle enough to use every day. It smells absolutely delicious, and I’m always craving cantaloupe after I wash my face. It’s a brightening cleanser and is also very hydrating. It contains cantaloupe, turmeric, licorice, and tamarind extract. Tumeric works great for reducing acne scarring, licorice is great for inflammation, and tamarind helps lighten skin and reduce dark spots.

To the right:

Scroll through the images to view the products mentioned in this blog and view recommendations from Susanna.

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3. Toner

Susanna: I’m a huge fan of toner and their benefits. They not only help to balance out your skin’s pH, but they’re the extra step to remove environmental toxins, help the skin look brighter and healthier, with less acne/scarring, and wrinkles.

Kiehls Calendula Toner | Everything I had to say about the cleanser is basically what I have to say about this toner. When I was younger, I used to use pretty harsh toners on my face. I mean, I guess I wouldn’t call them toners, they were astringents which was my BIGGEST mistake for a person with dry skin. This toner is amazing though because it leaves my skin feeling refreshed. My skin doesn’t feel dry at all after using it, and I do like the herbal scent.

Mamonde Rose Water Toner | Normally I use a cotton pad to apply my toner, but this I just put on my hands and press into my skin. It’s mostly 90% damask rose water, and it really soothes and hydrates my skin.

Beauty Giveaway 2020

I’m going to be teaming up with Susanna to host a giveaway in celebration of Okami & Company’s one year anniversary! To enter, participants must do the following:

Follow us on IG @okamiandco and @SusannaTheSkinSlayer
Tag a friend on the respective Instagram post for the giveaway
Comment on each blog post on the website with your favorite products and why

Each individual tag on Instagram is an additional entry to the giveaway. This giveaway will feature trial size and full size products that we will be recommending throughout the skin series!

4. Moisturizer

I think one of the biggest steps I took into adulthood was finally using a moisturizer made specifically for my face. Before, I would just use the same lotion on my face that I was using on my body because it was so great for the rest of my skin. I started with drugstore moisturizers such as Ponds (I know you did too!) or Olay, and then I finally bit the bullet and bought a more expensive moisturizer. I have no regrets.

Susanna: There are specific oils and ingredients that can cause massive breakouts and skin irritants to the face. These oils and ingredients aren’t meant for our face for multiple reasons such as no proper penetration to the skin and too much oil.

When looking for a good moisturizer for your skin look into moisturizers in the evening and lotions in the day time. Lotions are usually less thick and will help the reduction of oil and acne bc it mollifies better with free radicals. Moisturizers are thicker and better in the evening when your skin is in a resting state and needs the most penetration from the hard day.

Kiehls Ultra Facial Cream | It was a game-changer when I stopped using regular lotion for my face. I started using this moisturizer during the harsh winter in Korea, where the wind could tear your skin apart with just one hit. It claims to keep your skin nice and hydrated for a full 24 hours, but I’d say that it at least got me through a workday. I love how plump my skin feels after slathering this on. It’s not thick enough where it gives me a heavy feeling, my skin isn’t greasy afterward, but it definitely feels hydrated. All Kiehl’s products tend to be on the pricier side, but in my personal experience, they’ve always been worth it.

Mamonde Floral Hydro Cream | I thoroughly enjoy the scent of this cream, it’s a light floral scent like the rest of the floral line from Mamonde, but it just makes me feel like a happy grandma with her night cream. It is a certified vegan gel-cream. It may be lightweight, but it’s so hydrating. It contains low-molecular hyaluronic acid that leaves my skin plump when I wake up in the morning.

5. Sunscreen

Sunscreen for me had always been on the back burner unless I was out somewhere warm. You don’t realize how harsh the sun can be in cold weather, especially in high altitudes surrounded by snow. My skin was so used to being in the sun after living in Hawaii, but I realized how sensitive it became when I went back (after living in Germany for 9 years), and how much it changed. I make sure that at least one product in my face routine has sunscreen in it, whether it’s sunscreen itself or it’s in my BB cream.

Susanna: God, just going over the importance of sunscreen and how much of a difference it can make, not just when you're out at the pool. I’ve seen patients come into Dermatology with melanoma the size of two fists for the failure of wearing sunscreen. You’re awake when a MOHS surgeon cuts that out and graphs. The scar is forever and most times when you have one area, you’ll have more. When looking for a proper SPF make sure the first ingredient is ZINC. You want that to always be in a pure state to ensure the best results for sun protection. It’s ok to want to look tan, choose a safe way such as a spray tan or gradual self-tanner. I always tell my patients; “A tan is temporary, the health and wealth of your skin is not.”

Innisfree Tone Up Sunscreen | SPF35 PA+++ * | This is my lighter sunscreen when I don’t expect to be outside for very long. It’s got a very interesting texture to it once it’s applied to the skin. It seems pretty thick, but then feels a little powdery when you spread it out. I like it because it usually serves as my primer before I put on makeup. It has a matte finish that lasts throughout the day. I wouldn’t recommend this if you have a darker skin tone just because it does whiten your skin since it’s a Korean product.

Innisfree Intensive Antipollution Sunscreen | SPF50+ PA++++ * | This is the sunscreen I use when I’m going outside for longer durations and don’t plan on wearing too much makeup. It is actually pretty lightweight for what it claims to do. It’s waterproof which is nice for the summertime when you’re out sweating or swimming. It protects your skin from dust and UV rays from its powdery finish, similar to the Tone Up sunscreen. I also don’t recommend this for darker skin tones, as it does leave a light whitening finish.

notes: PA+++ is high UVA protection, PA++++ is extremely high UVA protection

& 10 years later

Can you believe that the photo to the left isn’t edited? The only thing that I’m wearing in this photo is a layer of Innisfree Tone Up Sunscreen and a thin layer of BB cream.

It’s taken me a long time to figure out a skincare routine that’s worked for me. I’ve lived in 5 different parts of the world with all kinds of different factors that effect my skin. Each move required another change to the routine, but that’s what makes this so much fun. Peep my clear skin 10 years later!

I hope you continue to follow this short series on skincare and beauty routines that you can incorporate into your daily routine. Our next blog is going to go over extra steps such as serums, essences, ampoules, and masks. So be on the look out!

xoxo,

Jakki & Susanna

Okami & Co.

Skin Series: The basic on Chemical Exfoliants (EEP!) / February 17, 2020 by Jaclyn Sison