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Skin Series: The basic on Chemical Exfoliants (EEP!) by Jaclyn Sison

Chemical Exfoliation

We must have some serious chemistry because you’re here again for our THIRD Skin Series Blog! Lovin’ the support that we have gotten from you if you’ve stuck with us this far. So we’re going to go more in-depth with what these mysterious chemical peels are and why it’s such a great step to incorporate into your skincare routine. You’ve probably heard of some of the more popular ones like salicylic acid for blemishes or citric acids for brightening. So chances are you’ve already been using them in your routine just embedded in your cleansers.

So there are 3 main types of chemical exfoliants that skincare products use: PHA, AHA, and BHA. All have similarities in what they do for your skin, but can definitely make a difference depending on what skin type you have. Chemical exfoliants mainly help shed that dead-skin layer that lies on top or penetrates through sebum that sits within your pores. So without further ado, let’s get to it. “Sanding it down and stripping it” and then repainting it with new stuff.

 

AHA, or Alpha-hydroxy Acids

You’ve probably already used products with AHAs blended in with them. AHAs are naturally derived from things like fruits, sugar cane, or milk. They’re gentle water-soluble acids that work on the epidermis (top layer). They work by breaking down the bonds of the dead skin that lies on the surface. Without these bonds, it’s easier for the dead and dull skin to fall off, or be “exfoliated”. With this process, it is only natural to have brighter skin because new bebe skin is exposed. AHAs are great for all skin types, including dry skin to help with texturing. A few of the most commonly used AHAs are listed below:

Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid

  • It’s pretty much the holy grail of the AHAs due to it’s small molecular size

  • It comes from sugar cane

  • Helps with texture to smooth out the skin

  • Can be used 2-3 times per week

Lactic acid

  • Slightly larger than glycolic acid, making it more gentle

  • It comes from sour milk, but doesn’t smell gross!

  • Helps with moisturizing as well as texture

Lactic Acid
Malic Acid

Malic acid

  • Milder than glycolic and lactic acid, often used in combination with other AHAs

  • It comes from apples

  • Helps with brightening

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid

  • It comes from bitter almonds

  • Helps with anti-bacterial properties and exfoliation without the brightening

  • Very gentle on your skin!


Giveaway

BEAUTY GIVEAWAY 2020

I’m going to be teaming up with Susanna to host a giveaway in celebration of Okami & Company’s one year anniversary! To enter, participants must do the following:

  1. Follow us on IG @lynnnnsane and @SusannaTheSkinSlayer

  2. Tag a friend on the respective Instagram post for the giveaway

  3. Comment on each blog post on the website with your favorite products and why

Each individual tag on Instagram is an additional entry to the giveaway. This giveaway will feature trial size and full size products that we will be recommending throughout the skin series!

GIVEAWAY ENDS FEBRUARY 23 :)


BHA, or Beta-hydroxy Acids

The infamous salicylic acid that all of us have known as tried and true during our pubescent years. Chances are your parents bought you your first face wash containing a dose of salicylic acid when your teenage face was first starting to break out. You know that it is gentle enough to use every day. The first time I used salicylic acid was when I was started on Proactiv and it made a world of difference. Salicylic acid is a fat-soluble acid that is able to penetrate deeper into the pores and those stubborn oil glands allowing them to be cleared. Unclogging those pores are so important before applying other products, especially ones that are not fat-soluble. With that being said, BHAs work great for those with oilier skin types!

PHA, or Poly-hydroxy Acids

It’s not that this is a new one, but it is becoming more popularly used. Think of PHAs as the baby sister of AHAs. They’re very similar, but the biggest difference is the larger molecular size of a PHA. If you’ve ever taken the time to look at your products, anything with glucose lactose, galactose, or lactobionic acid is a PHA. Who does this product work best for? Those with sensitive skin. Sometimes our skin doesn’t tolerate products because, let’s face it, some products are just too strong for our skin. A big plus for PHAs are most PHAs are great for hydration because they’re a humectant. There’s also less of a chance for photoaging, aka, you’re less sensitive to the harsh rays of the sun after application. That doesn’t mean to skip out on the sunscreen though.


Things to remember about chemical exfoliants

  1. Can be found in some of your main products already or are found as their own product

  2. Tingling versus burning? Tingling is normal and subsides a few minutes after application; burning does not subside and you may see redness afterward - this could be a sign that you’re using it too often or the concentration is too high for your skin right now

  3. Try to use them at night to not expose skin to immediately the sun because your skin may become irritated with increased sun exposure - USE SUNSCREEN THE MORNING AFTER (if you aren’t a normal wearer of sunscreen, cause it should be used daily)

  4. Hydrate and moisturize after application of chemical peels

  5. Check the concentration of the peels that you use, start low and work your way up

  6. Don’t over-exfoliate with physical or chemical exfoliants - if you plan on using a chemical exfoliant, maybe skip out on your Clarisonic for the night, the last thing you want is to cause micro-tears in your skin

  7. Don’t use on sensitive skin (already broken skin, inflamed skin, or bad blemishes) Not even PHA! Let your skin heal first before you start to slough it off

Tabby's Luminescent Glam Boxes & How She Promotes Self-Love by Jaclyn Sison

My name is Tabby, and I'm a Cosmetologist. Lunar Tide Beauty was originally After Hours style, and I started up about three days after I got to Korea again. I'd always dabbled in hair styling and make up prior to our first stay here in Korea. I even moonlighted as a make up artist for a photo shoot or two. Really what sealed it was four years not really working. I couldn't stand it. I need to be doing things to keep myself sane. I went back to school in 2015. Cosmetology was a no brainer, I grew up in a beauty shop, my grandma was a Hairdresser and it just feels like home.

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Day to Day Operations

My day to day currently is largely consultations via Facebook, working to create inventory, or working on a project for the Diversity and Inclusion section of the Red Cross, at least if I don't have scheduled clients. I can go from two or three haircuts or waxes to an all-day session of Unicorn/Mermaid hair or blonde AF.  I keep way busier than I anticipated at the beginning of the year, but it's great! The work I do is absolutely fulfilling, I adore making people feel beautiful. 

Luminescent Cosmetics

Which brought around Luminescent Cosmetics. I am huge into skincare, I love to try different things, but I'm also really interested in ingredients. More so after learning that a friend of mine who is a cancer-survivor can't use anything with a metal oxide in it. I had no idea how many mineral based products contained a metal oxide! Another friend revealed she's allergic to glycerin when I suggested a serum for her to use. Glycerin is in EVERYTHING just about and that narrows down the choices quite a bit. I always wanted to make my own line, why not? In the age of the Millennial we're all reverting back to craftsmanship and artisan type practices. Why shouldn't I do the same thing and provide something I would be proud to use to the people around me. So that was how I got out some text books, did some updated research on the best ingredients and came up with my launch products. 

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The Glam Crates

I started these glam crates originally to sort of get myself out there, for people to know my name, and the products I use and sell. That's evolved since I actually really love giving gifts and the glam crates are perfect for me to curate and gift to their recipients. Beauty boxes are really popular, and for good reason: who wants to spend 500 dollars on products they may or may not use all of? I had a whole stash of unused unopened make up waiting for a home after a couple years of Ipsy, Sephora Play and other similar subscriptions. I ended up sending a lot of it to glambot.com or just giving it away. Because none of those services really get me and what I'm looking for, I often ended up disappointed and cancelling the subscription after about six months. 

Curated for the person

I make my boxes for each person who signs up. No two boxes are the same, and there isn't really a baseline other than the themed piece. Comfy meant find leggings and t-shirts that were soft and wearable in color schemes for each of the vibrant women who asked for one. This month means finding the right flower themed items for each individual, be they made or bought. I think what sets me apart from the majority of big name boxes and even some of the smaller boxes is I really want you to be happy with the box, not so you'll pay me for another one - but because I love the messages I get. The wow these all fit my aesthetic, or this is so fun, I had a great time trying out new things, or I found my new holy grail! That boosts my mood and fills my spirit. 

Self-Care is being able to look at my habits and slowly start to chip away at the toxic ones.
— Tabby
Tabby with her beautiful make up on

On the topic of self-care, as a person with Anxiety and Depression it's something I'm still learning to allow myself. As a high functioning depressive I often take on too much at once, over scheduling my weeks and grabbing onto new projects. Don't get me wrong, it's so fulfilling, but I am so mentally exhausted sometimes that it's startling. Self-Care is being able to look at my habits and slowly start to chip away at the toxic ones. Eat at home rather than eat high fat, high-carb fast-foods that leave me sluggish and more prone to depressive states. Take an hour and taking a hot bath with a book playing on my phone to recenter myself and let my brain just quiet down. It's so important, it's kept me from bottling up my emotions and having some needless knock down drag out fight over something insipid. 

My beauty routine

My personal daily beauty routine is simple, at least in my mind. If I've worn make up the day before, it's exfoliation day that morning, then a gentle wash, pat dry, grab the toner, swipe it on and let it dry down, serum to replenish the moisture I took from my skin with the exfoliant and wash, and seal it all down with moisturizer and sunscreen before I do anything else. If I'm adding a face on top of it, full or otherwise, primer first, I'm currently in love with No Poreblem from TouchInSol and Unicorn Essence from Farsali. I start with my brows, filling/shaping them and then clean them up with some concealer. If it's a quick look, swipe on my liner and mascara. Concealer blended out under my eyes, a lipstick and I'm good to go. Basically I frame my face. If you don't have brows and liner, for your eyes, they get lost, or easily over looked. Lips, obviously can either be your focal point or just highlighted gently to really finish a natural quick look. 

Practicing Self Love

Get this must-have product if you can!

Must have product - especially out here where the Air Quality jumps - is a high quality serum. I highly recommend either The Ordinary Hyaluronic + B5 serum or my own creation which I call the red moon serum. Rice Water with High Molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin E, Liquid Silk, Aloe Vera Water and a light lavender scent. I want people to maximize hydration in their skin, it's a thing we're hardly ever told other than to drink water and moisturize, without being told moisturizers only lock in what's on your skin when you put it on! 

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Note from Okami & Co.

  We connected with Tabby through a Facebook beauty group here in South Korea.  I noticed that someone had posted their personally curated box from Tabby, and was immediately interested when Tabby advertised, she was taking orders.  I didn’t hesitate at the chance to order one of these boxes, and to give someone else the gift of self-care as well.  You can find more of Tabby’s work below!

Instagram: www.instagram.com/lunartidebeauty
Instagram: www.instagram.com/luminescentcosmetics
Website: www.lunartidebeauty.com
Website: www.luminescentcosmetics.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/lunartidebeauty
Facebook: www.facebook.com/luminescentcosmetics

O&H Beauty Group Contest: Follow myself on Instagram @okamiandco, @stayaloha, @luminescentcosmetics, and @lunartidebeauty on Instagram. And comment with your reply to the question, “What is your beauty routine, and how does it help your mentality with self-love?”